Bessho Onsen and the “Kamakura of Shinshu”
Anrakuji is located in the historic Bessho Onsen area of the Shioda Plain, a region often called the “Kamakura of Shinshu.”
During the Kamakura period, the area flourished under the Shioda branch of the Hojo clan. Numerous temples, Buddhist monuments, and cultural institutions were established here, turning the region into an important center of medieval religious culture.
Anrakuji played a particularly important role in the development of Zen culture in Shinshu. Today, visitors can explore the temple together with other historic temples and cultural properties scattered throughout the Shioda Plain.
The Early History of Anrakuji
Traditional Accounts of Its Foundation
The exact date of Anrakuji’s foundation remains uncertain. Temple tradition gives two possible origins. One tradition says that the temple was founded by the Buddhist monk Gyoki during the Tenpyo era, from 729 to 749. Another places its foundation in the Tencho era (824–834) during the early Heian period.
There are few surviving records from before the Kamakura period. By the late Heian period, however, Anrakuji is believed to have been a Ritsu Buddhist temple, belonging to a tradition focused on Buddhist monastic discipline.
Shokoku Isen and the Rise of Zen
A Monk Who Studied Zen in Song China
Anrakuji’s history becomes much clearer during the middle of the Kamakura period, when it was led by Shokoku Isen, a Zen monk from Shinano who belonged to the Rinzai tradition.
In the mid-13th century, Isen traveled to Song China, where he studied contemporary Zen thought and architectural culture. He is traditionally said to have returned to Japan in 1246 on the same ship as Lanxi Daolong, the Chinese monk who later founded Kenchoji Temple in Kamakura.
A Major Zen Center in Medieval Shinshu
Under the protection of the Shioda Hojo clan, Anrakuji flourished as a major center of Zen practice and learning.
The Record of Teachings of Great Enlightenment Zen Master describes Kenchoji and Shioda as temples where large communities of monks gathered to study Buddhism and Zen. More than a hundred monks are associated with Kenchoji and around fifty with Shioda, suggesting the considerable scale and influence of Anrakuji at the time.
During this period, Anrakuji stood alongside Kenchoji as one of the important centers of Zen learning in eastern Japan.
Decline and Revival
From the End of the Kamakura Shogunate to the Edo Period
After the fall of the Kamakura shogunate, Anrakuji gradually declined and many of its original buildings were lost.
Around 1580, during the Warring States period, the temple was revived by the monk Kozan Junkei of the Tsuugen school of Soto Zen. From that time onward, Anrakuji continued as a Soto Zen temple.
Although much of the medieval temple complex disappeared, the Octagonal Three-Story Pagoda and other surviving cultural treasures continue to convey the grandeur of Anrakuji during its medieval heyday.
The National Treasure Octagonal Three-Story Pagoda
Japan’s Only Wooden Octagonal Pagoda
The Octagonal Three-Story Pagoda is the undisputed highlight of Anrakuji. It was designated a National Treasure in 1952, at the same time as Matsumoto Castle, becoming one of the first National Treasures in Nagano Prefecture.
It is the only surviving octagonal pagoda built before the modern era in Japan. Other famous octagonal pagodas once existed at places such as Saidaiji Temple in Nara and Hosshoji Temple in Kyoto, but they no longer survive.
Its rarity makes the tower an outstanding monument of Japanese Buddhist architecture and an important link to the architectural culture of medieval East Asia.
Dating the Pagoda Through Tree-Ring Science
A tree-ring dating survey conducted in 2004 revealed that major structural timbers were cut in 1289. Based on this evidence, the pagoda is believed to have been constructed during the 1290s, toward the end of the Kamakura period.
This dating has strengthened the view that the tower may be the oldest surviving Zen-style building in Japan.
A Three-Story Tower with a Distinctive Lower Roof
At first glance, the structure may appear to be a four-story pagoda. The lowest roof, however, is a mokoshi, a secondary pent roof functioning like an extended eave. Architecturally, it is therefore classified as an octagonal three-story pagoda with a mokoshi.
The tower stands 18.75 meters high including the finial. Its roofs are covered with thin wooden shingles known as kokerabuki, creating a graceful silhouette that combines a strong sense of stability with the elegant symmetry of its eight-sided design.
Zen-Style Architecture from Song China
The pagoda was built in the Zen-style architectural tradition, known in Japan as Zenshu-yo or Karayo, which was introduced from Song China.
Distinctive techniques include fan-shaped rafters, elaborate bracket complexes, and bow-shaped decorative latticework. These features differ from those normally seen in traditional Japanese Buddhist architecture of the same period.
Under the eaves, the intricate wooden framework and the radiating arrangement of the rafters create a striking combination of refinement and structural complexity.
The Interior and Its Religious Meaning
Inside the pagoda, eight pillars divide the space into an inner sanctuary and an outer area. The inner sanctuary contains an octagonal altar believed to date from the original construction period.
Particularly noteworthy is the presence of Dainichi Nyorai, the Buddha associated with the center of the Buddhist cosmos and the sun. Its presence gives the Zen pagoda a distinctive esoteric Buddhist dimension, adding another layer to its religious history.
Preservation and Restoration
The pagoda underwent a major restoration project in 2011, including the replacement of its wooden shingle roofing and repairs to the finial at the top of the tower.
The project represented the first major roof repair in approximately 60 years and the first major restoration of the uppermost structure in around 100 years. These efforts have helped preserve the National Treasure for future generations.
Other Important Cultural Properties
Portrait Sculptures of Zen Masters
In addition to the pagoda, Anrakuji preserves important Buddhist sculptures designated as Important Cultural Properties.
Among them are wooden seated statues of Shokoku Isen and Yugyu Ejin. These portrait sculptures were created in 1329 and are examples of chinsō, realistic portrait sculpture used to commemorate Zen masters.
The statues feature crystal eyes known as gyokugan, giving their solemn expressions an extraordinary sense of presence. They are enshrined in the Denpo Hall behind the main hall.
A Walk Through a Peaceful Zen Precinct
The approach to Anrakuji leads up a stone staircase lined with tall cedar trees. As visitors climb toward the main hall, the National Treasure pagoda gradually appears beyond the temple buildings.
The deep greenery surrounding the grounds changes dramatically with the seasons. Fresh spring foliage, rich summer greenery, autumn colors, and the quiet landscape of winter each create a different atmosphere.
The combination of stone steps, ancient trees, traditional architecture, and the distant octagonal pagoda creates a particularly peaceful setting in which to experience the atmosphere of a Japanese Zen temple.
Visiting Anrakuji
Viewing Hours
From March through October, the temple is open from 8:00 to 17:00. From November through February, visiting hours are 8:00 to 16:00.
The admission fee is 300 yen.
Historic Temples Around the Shioda Plain
Anrakuji is part of a remarkable concentration of medieval Buddhist heritage in the Shioda Plain. The area developed under the Shioda Hojo clan and is now known as the “Kamakura of Shinshu.”
Daihoji Temple is home to a National Treasure three-story pagoda, while Jorakuji Temple preserves an important stone Tahoto pagoda. Maeyama-ji Temple is known for its Important Cultural Property three-story pagoda, and Chūzenji Temple has an Important Cultural Property Yakushido Hall.
Shinano Kokubunji Temple preserves the three-story pagoda of an ancient Buddhist complex, while Ryuko-in Temple retains the dignified atmosphere of an Edo-period temple.
Discover the Zen Heritage of Bessho Onsen
Anrakuji is a remarkable meeting point of Zen Buddhism, medieval history, and architectural artistry. Its long history as a major center of Zen learning, together with its extraordinary National Treasure pagoda, makes it one of the most distinctive cultural sites in Bessho Onsen.
Standing beneath the surrounding trees and looking up at the elegant eight-sided tower, visitors can appreciate architectural details that have survived for more than seven centuries.
When visiting Bessho Onsen, a walk to Anrakuji offers a rare opportunity to encounter the spiritual atmosphere of medieval Japan and one of the country’s most exceptional wooden structures.