The History of Kozenji
Founded by a Disciple of the Great Monk Ennin
The foundation of Kozenji is traditionally attributed to Honjo, a disciple of the eminent monk Ennin of Enryakuji Temple on Mount Hiei. According to tradition, after leaving Mount Hiei, Honjo received a statue of Fudo Myoo from a waterfall in the Kurokawa River, a tributary of the Otagiri River, and established a temple at this location.
The temple is said to have been founded in 860. Its original site was reportedly somewhat closer to the Kiso Mountains than its present location.
During the Sengoku period, Kozenji received protection from powerful military families, including the Takeda clan and the Hashiba clan, later associated with the Toyotomi family. The temple consequently grew into an important religious center.
During the Edo period, the temple was granted a 60-koku estate under the shogunate’s red-seal land system by Tokugawa Iemitsu. Kozenji continued to flourish as a center of faith in the region.
After the Meiji Restoration, however, the movement to separate Buddhism and Shinto led to the loss of many of the temple’s sub-temples and affiliated temples. Despite these changes, Kozenji has preserved its religious traditions and continues to be an important place of worship today.
The Legend of Hayataro
A Tale Connecting Shinshu and the Former Province of Totomi
One of the most famous stories associated with Kozenji is the legend of Hayataro. The same legendary dog is also known in the former province of Totomi, in present-day Mitsuke in Iwata City, Shizuoka Prefecture, where he is called Shippeitaro.
The legend therefore connects the two regions of Shinshu and Enshu and has been passed down for generations.
The Puppy Who Became Hayataro
According to the story, a wild dog once gave birth to puppies beneath the floor of Kozenji. The temple’s priest cared for the mother and her puppies, but when the mother eventually returned to the mountains, she left one puppy behind at the temple.
This puppy was Hayataro. He grew into a remarkably strong and intelligent dog under the care of the temple.
The Monster of Mitsuke
One day, a traveling Buddhist monk learned of a terrible custom in Mitsuke Village in Totomi, where a young girl was sacrificed every year.
The monk discovered that a mysterious monster had been responsible for the sacrifices. The creature was said to have muttered that “the people of Shinshu must not learn about Hayataro.” Realizing that the mysterious Hayataro might be the only one capable of defeating the monster, the monk traveled to Kozenji.
Hayataro was taken to Totomi, where he hid inside the coffin prepared for the sacrificial victim on the night of the festival. When the monster appeared, Hayataro confronted it.
The creature was revealed to be a monstrous old ape known as a Hihi, which had terrorized the local people for many years. Hayataro fought the monster in a fierce battle and ultimately defeated it.
However, Hayataro had suffered serious injuries. According to the legend, he returned to Kozenji but died shortly afterward.
The Grave of the Sacred Dog
In honor of Hayataro’s courage and loyalty, the temple priest dedicated a copy of the Daihannya-kyo, the Great Perfection of Wisdom Sutras, for his memorial service.
The Grave of the Sacred Dog Hayataro can still be found beside the main hall. For visitors, it offers a tangible connection to one of Japan’s most beloved regional legends.
Temple Grounds and Traditional Gardens
A Peaceful Landscape Beneath Giant Cedar Trees
The grounds of Kozenji are lined with enormous cedar trees, creating a solemn and atmospheric approach to the temple buildings. Several gardens dating from the Kamakura through Edo periods remain within the grounds, each reflecting the aesthetic traditions of Japanese garden design.
One of the highlights is the Ranzan Doryu-style pond garden, centered around a waterfall known as Ryumon Waterfall. A distinctive stone arrangement called Gyogyo-seki, or “Carp Stone,” is placed above the waterfall, creating an unusual design inspired by the traditional Chinese legend of a carp transforming into a dragon.
The strolling-style pond garden in the western part of the guest hall is another beautiful feature. Its carefully arranged landscape changes character with the seasons, offering visitors a different atmosphere in spring, summer, autumn, and winter.
Historic Temple Buildings
Main Hall
The Main Hall was rebuilt in 1851. Its roof features gentle, sweeping curves that give the building a graceful appearance despite its substantial scale.
Sanmon Gate
The Sanmon Gate, rebuilt in 1848, contains statues of the Sixteen Arhats. Passing through the gate provides an impressive introduction to the solemn atmosphere of the temple grounds.
Benten Hall
The Benten Hall is a valuable example of Muromachi-period architecture and has been designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan. Inside are statues of Benzaiten and the Fifteen Children, reflecting the long history of worship at the temple.
Sutra Repository and Three-Story Pagoda
The Sutra Repository, built in 1802, houses the Daihannya-kyo scriptures associated with the legend of Hayataro.
The Three-Story Pagoda was rebuilt in 1808 and stands approximately 17 meters high. It has been designated a Nagano Prefecture Tangible Cultural Property.
At the Niomon Gate, visitors can also see statues of the Buddhist guardian kings known as Kongo Rikishi. These statues were created in 1528 and are designated Tangible Cultural Properties of Komagane City.
Seasonal Events and Scenery
Kozenji hosts several important religious events throughout the year. A prayer service for protection from misfortune is held in mid-January, followed by the Hatsu-Fudo ceremony on January 28. The temple’s annual festival takes place on April 29, attracting worshippers from Nagano and beyond.
The temple grounds are beautiful in every season. Weeping cherry trees bring delicate color in spring, while fresh green foliage creates a cool and refreshing atmosphere in summer. Autumn covers the grounds in brilliant foliage, and winter snow transforms the temple into a quiet landscape of white.
Access to Kozenji Temple
Kozenji is approximately 4 kilometers west of JR Komagane Station on the Iida Line. From the station, take a bus and get off at the Kiriishi Koen-shita stop, followed by a walk of approximately 10 minutes.
For visitors traveling by car, the temple is conveniently located approximately 1.2 kilometers from the Komagane Interchange on the Chuo Expressway.
A Temple of Faith, Legend, and Natural Beauty
Kozenji Temple is a remarkable place where centuries of Buddhist faith, local legend, historic architecture, and mountain nature come together. The story of Hayataro gives the temple a memorable human and emotional dimension, while the ancient buildings and carefully designed gardens reveal the depth of its cultural heritage.
Walking beneath the giant cedar trees, exploring the historic temple buildings, and viewing the gardens through the changing seasons offer a peaceful way to experience the cultural landscape of Komagane.
With the mountains of the Central Alps providing a dramatic backdrop, Kozenji is a particularly rewarding destination for travelers interested in Japanese Buddhism, traditional gardens, architecture, and regional folklore. A visit here offers not only beautiful scenery but also a glimpse into the stories and beliefs that have shaped local culture for more than a thousand years.