From the Unno Clan to an Edo-Period Post Town
A History Stretching Back to the Heian and Kamakura Periods
The history of Unno-juku goes back to the Heian and Kamakura periods. The area developed as the territory known as Unno-go and Unno-no-sho, associated with the influential Unno clan.
The region also has connections with Minamoto no Yoshinaka, also known as Kiso Yoshinaka, a warrior who played an important role during the late Heian period. The surrounding area was also the setting for the Battle of Unnodaira, an important episode in the history of the region.
During the Warring States period, the area is also associated with Sanada Yukitaka and his brothers, linking Unno to the history of one of Nagano’s best-known samurai families.
Establishment as a Hokkoku Kaido Post Town
In 1625, during the early Edo period, the Tokugawa shogunate formally established Unno-juku as an independent post town on the Hokkoku Kaido after a period when it operated together with Tanaka-juku.
The old highway extends for approximately 650 meters through the historic settlement and is about 10 meters wide. The post town once contained one honjin, the main lodging facility reserved for feudal lords and other high-ranking travelers, as well as two waki-honjin for other important guests.
Numerous inns, merchants, and official transport facilities lined the road. Travelers heading to Zenkoji Temple and feudal lords traveling to and from their domains as part of the sankin-kotai system passed through the town.
Practical facilities were also provided for travelers and horses, including stone lanterns, watering places for horses, and rest areas. Unno-juku therefore functioned not simply as a collection of inns, but as an important transportation and commercial center.
How Unno-juku Survived into the Modern Era
The Decline of the Post Town
During the Meiji and Taisho periods, the rapid development of Japan’s railway network gradually reduced the importance of traditional post towns. Many inns and businesses in Unno-juku disappeared as modern transportation routes replaced the old highway system.
At the same time, however, sericulture became an important local industry. The traditional buildings were adapted for silk production, and many historic structures survived rather than being replaced by modern buildings.
A planned railway station for the Shin’etsu Main Line was never built in Unno-juku, helping the settlement avoid some of the major changes that affected other towns. As a result, the area continued to develop quietly as a rural community while preserving much of its historic character.
Preservation and Restoration
Recognition of Unno-juku’s historical value grew during the late 20th century. In 1986, it was selected as one of Japan’s 100 Famous Roads under the theme “Unno-juku, a Town with a Fragrance of History.” The following year, in 1987, it was designated as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings.
Since then, preservation work has continued. Approximately three buildings a year have been restored, while a broader landscape conservation project began in 1989.
Improvements have included burying utility poles underground, upgrading pedestrian areas, and renewing vegetation. These efforts have helped maintain the historic appearance of the town while making it more comfortable for visitors to explore on foot.
Traditional Architecture Along the Old Highway
Lattice Doors, Udatsu, and Elaborate Woodwork
Walking along the old road is the best way to appreciate the architectural character of Unno-juku. The buildings include traditional hatago-style inns, houses adapted for sericulture, and traditional homes with thatched roofs.
Some structures retain façades that closely resemble their Edo-period appearance. One of the most distinctive features is the continuous use of lattice doors and windows, which give the street a refined and rhythmic appearance.
Look upward and you will also notice udatsu, raised fire-prevention walls built along the edges of traditional roofs. In addition to their practical purpose, udatsu became architectural symbols of status and prosperity in many historic Japanese towns.
Other details worth looking for include second-floor lattice windows, projecting beams known as dashigeta, and beautifully carved supporting brackets. These small details reveal the craftsmanship and social history preserved within the townscape.
Omote-no-kawa: The Historic Water Channel
One of Unno-juku’s most charming features is Omote-no-kawa, a narrow irrigation and drainage channel that has flowed through the center of the settlement since the Edo period.
Small washing areas can still be seen beside individual houses. In the past, these spaces formed part of everyday life in the post town. Travelers could wash their feet, while horses could drink and cool themselves along the waterway.
The channel also reflects the practical wisdom of traditional communities. Water was incorporated into everyday life while also contributing to fire prevention and the management of the densely built settlement.
Homes Shaped by the Sericulture Industry
Some of the traditional homes feature sode-udatsu, side-wall versions of the udatsu fire-prevention structure. These architectural elements are particularly associated with the houses of the Meiji-period sericulture industry.
Storehouses, former silkworm rooms, earthen-floored work areas, and living spaces were often integrated into the same buildings. The architecture therefore offers more than an attractive streetscape—it provides clues about how local families actually lived and worked.
Historic Sites and Cultural Attractions
Former Honjin, Toiya, and Inn Sites
Throughout Unno-juku, visitors can find the former sites of the honjin, official transport offices known as toiya, and former inns. These sites help explain how the post town operated during the Edo period.
Local museums and exhibition facilities also introduce the area’s history and traditional culture. The Natsukashi no Omocha Exhibition Hall, for example, displays toys and everyday objects from the Showa era, offering a nostalgic look at more recent Japanese life.
Shiratori Shrine and the Legend of Raiden
The Guardian Shrine of the Unno Clan
At the eastern end of the historic street stands Shiratori Shrine, a venerable shrine traditionally revered as the guardian shrine of the Unno clan.
The shrine is also associated with the legendary sumo wrestler Raiden Tameemon, one of the most powerful wrestlers in the history of Japanese sumo.
A Sumo Legend from 1822
In 1822, Raiden was granted an audience with Shogun Tokugawa Ienari. On that occasion, he was honored with the titles “Unrivaled Under Heaven” and “Peerless Under Heaven.”
A four-pillared sumo ring was reportedly dedicated beside the shrine’s main sanctuary at the time. The story remains part of the cultural tradition surrounding Shiratori Shrine and adds an intriguing connection between the historic settlement and Japan’s national sport.
Experience Historic Town Life at Unnowa
Stay in a Renovated Traditional House
For travelers who want to do more than simply walk through the historic district, Unnowa offers a more immersive experience.
This stay-and-exchange facility has been created by renovating a traditional Japanese house. Guests can enjoy locally sourced food and cultural experiences while staying within the atmosphere of the former post town.
Rather than visiting Unno-juku as a quick sightseeing stop, spending time here allows travelers to appreciate the quieter side of historic Japan and connect more closely with the local community.
Festivals and Local Events
Unno-juku Fureai Festival
Every year on November 23, the Unno-juku Fureai Festival brings the historic district to life.
The event features traditional performing arts, local products, and tea ceremonies. Residents and visitors gather together, creating an atmosphere in which the history of the town becomes part of contemporary community life.
For travelers interested in experiencing local traditions rather than simply viewing historic buildings, the festival offers a particularly rewarding opportunity.
Exploring the Landscape Around Unno-juku
The Chikuma River and Ueda Basin
Unno-juku lies in the southeastern part of the Ueda Basin, extending in a long, narrow form along the northern bank of the Chikuma River.
Across the river, the mountains of the Joshin’etsukogen National Park create a dramatic natural backdrop. The combination of the historic streetscape, flowing river, and surrounding mountains gives the town a distinctive sense of place.
Yaehara Plateau and Rural Landscapes
A short journey south leads to the gently rolling Yaehara Plateau. The area is known for its rural scenery, farmland, and orchards, providing a pleasant contrast to the compact historic streets of Unno-juku.
Visitors can combine a walk through the old post town with excursions into the surrounding countryside, enjoying historic architecture, mountain scenery, agriculture, and local food within the same area.
Getting to Unno-juku
By Train and Taxi
The nearest railway stations are Tanaka Station and Oya Station on the Shinano Railway. From either station, Unno-juku is approximately five minutes by taxi.
This makes the historic district relatively easy to incorporate into a sightseeing itinerary using public transportation, particularly when combined with other destinations in Tomi City and the wider Ueda and Komoro area.
By Car
By car, Unno-juku is approximately 10 minutes, or about 5 kilometers, from the Tobu-Yunomaru Interchange on the Joshin’etsu Expressway.
Free parking is available at three locations near the historic district.
Unno Parking Lot No. 1
Located beside Shiratori Shrine, this parking area has spaces for 29 regular vehicles, 2 vehicles for wheelchair users, and 1 motorcycle.
Unno Parking Lot No. 2
Located opposite the Kiichiro Mizumura Museum of Art, this is the largest of the three lots. It accommodates 5 large vehicles, 60 regular vehicles, 2 wheelchair-accessible vehicles, and 1 motorcycle.
Unno Parking Lot No. 3
Located near the Unno Mallet Golf Course, this parking area can accommodate 15 large vehicles.
Take Time to Discover Unno-juku
Unno-juku is much more than a picturesque old street. Its character has been shaped by centuries of history—from the medieval Unno clan and the castle-town era to the Edo-period Hokkoku Kaido, the development of sericulture, and the quiet rural life of the modern era.
The best way to experience the town is to walk slowly and pay attention to the details. Look for the different lattice designs on each house, the historic washing places beside the water channel, the udatsu fire walls, projecting beams, carved brackets, storehouses, and former sericulture rooms.
A visit to Shiratori Shrine adds another layer of history, particularly through its connection with the legendary sumo wrestler Raiden. Local food, traditional crafts, cultural experiences, and the opportunity to stay in a renovated traditional house at Unnowa can make the visit even more memorable.
With convenient access by both train and car, as well as free parking, Unno-juku is an excellent stop when exploring eastern Nagano. Combine the historic streets with the mountains, countryside, hot springs, and agricultural attractions of Tomi City, and you can experience a quieter, more intimate side of Japan—one where the past remains part of everyday life.