The Legend of Honda Yoshimitsu and the Origin of the Temple
The area around the temple was once known as Omi no Sato. According to temple tradition, in 602, during the reign of Empress Suiko, a local man named Honda Yoshimitsu discovered a Buddhist image emitting a mysterious light in Horie, in what is now Osaka City.
The image was the Zenkoji Nyorai, a distinctive Buddhist image consisting of three figures known as Ikko-Sanzon. Yoshimitsu brought the image back to Shinano and enshrined it on top of a stone mortar at his home. The mortar is said to have shone brilliantly, leading the place to be renamed Zakoji, meaning roughly “the temple where light shines.”
In 642, the principal image was moved by imperial order to Imoi no Sato, in present-day Nagano City. Zenkoji Temple was subsequently established there. The original site at Zakoji came to be known as Moto-Zenkoji, meaning “Original Zenkoji.”
According to tradition, a wooden image was left behind when the principal image was transferred. A Buddhist message also declared that the sacred image would return to its birthplace for half of every month to save sentient beings. This tradition gave rise to the belief that visiting only one of the two temples is an incomplete pilgrimage, and that worshippers should visit both Zenkoji and Moto-Zenkoji.
Honda Yoshimitsu and the Zenkoji Tradition
Honda Yoshimitsu is traditionally regarded as the founder of Zenkoji Temple in Nagano. Moto-Zenkoji, which stands in the area associated with his birthplace, is therefore regarded as an important source of the Zenkoji faith.
The temple attracts worshippers from throughout Japan, particularly during the Gokaicho, a major public viewing ceremony held once every seven years. Moto-Zenkoji holds its own Gokaicho around the same period as Zenkoji Temple in Nagano, drawing large numbers of pilgrims.
Visitors may also have the opportunity to listen to approachable Buddhist talks by the temple’s monks. These talks provide a chance to learn more about the religious traditions and stories surrounding Moto-Zenkoji.
A Peaceful Temple Surrounded by Seasonal Beauty
The temple grounds have a calm and contemplative atmosphere. Walking along the approach to the main hall, visitors can sense the long history of the site and the quiet passage of time.
In spring, cherry blossoms add color to the grounds, while autumn brings vibrant foliage. The changing scenery gives the temple a different character throughout the year.
O-Kaidan Meguri — Walking Through Darkness
One of the most distinctive experiences at Moto-Zenkoji is O-Kaidan Meguri, a ritual walk through complete darkness. Visitors enter from the outer area of the main hall and, while keeping their shoes on, proceed through a dark passage said to represent a journey through the womb of the Buddha.
Using a handrail to guide their way, participants walk slowly through the darkness. Along the route, they can touch a special auspicious lock directly beneath the principal Buddhist image. It is believed that touching this object establishes a deep spiritual connection with the Buddha.
Moving forward step by step without relying on sight encourages visitors to turn their attention inward. The experience is traditionally understood as symbolizing a path of rebirth and renewal. For many visitors, the quiet journey provides a rare opportunity to leave behind the distractions of everyday life and spend a few moments in contemplation.
The form of O-Kaidan Meguri at Moto-Zenkoji is also said to preserve an early style of Zenkoji worship in which pilgrims entered from the outer area of the temple while keeping their footwear on.
The Treasure Hall — Buddhist Art and Sacred History
The temple’s Treasure Hall houses a collection of valuable Buddhist artworks and objects connected with Moto-Zenkoji.
Among the best-known treasures is the Reiho Zako no Usu, the sacred stone mortar said to have emitted light when Honda Yoshimitsu placed the Buddhist image upon it. The mortar is regarded as one of the most important objects associated with the origin story of Moto-Zenkoji.
The collection also includes an image of Aizen Myoo, traditionally attributed to the Fujiwara period, as well as a serene image of the reclining Buddha. Together, these works provide an opportunity to appreciate the close relationship between Buddhist faith and art in Japanese history.
Hall of Peace and the Peace Bell
The temple grounds include a large bell known as the Peace Bell. Its sound carries across the temple grounds, expressing prayers for peace and tranquility.
The Hall of Peace houses images of the Kannon Bodhisattva associated with the Thirty-Three Temples of the Saigoku Pilgrimage. Visitors can worship at these images while praying for peace and well-being.
The sound of the bell in the quiet temple grounds creates a particularly moving atmosphere, linking the prayers of the present with centuries of religious tradition.
Mai-zakura — A 350-Year-Old Cherry Tree
One of the most popular attractions near Moto-Zenkoji is Mai-zakura, a rare cherry tree known as a semi-double weeping Benihigan cherry. The tree is estimated to be approximately 350 years old.
In spring, its delicate pale-pink flowers create a beautiful setting around the historic temple. The nearby Former Zakoji Omi School Building, designated a Nagano Prefectural Treasure, adds another layer of historical interest to the area.
Puppet Theater Culture Nearby
Within walking distance of the temple is the Takeda Sennosuke Memorial International Marionette Museum, which introduces valuable marionettes and the history of puppet theater in Japan and other countries.
The museum is particularly relevant to Iida’s identity as the “City of Puppetry.” Combining a visit to Moto-Zenkoji with the museum allows travelers to experience both the religious heritage and performing arts culture of Southern Nagano.
Access
Moto-Zenkoji is conveniently located about five minutes on foot from Moto-Zenkoji Station on the JR Iida Line. Parking areas are also available nearby, making the temple accessible by car.
Visit the Origin of Zenkoji Faith
Moto-Zenkoji Temple offers a rare opportunity to explore the origins of one of Japan’s best-known Buddhist pilgrimage traditions. The temple preserves stories dating back to the sixth and seventh centuries, when the Buddhist image now enshrined at Zenkoji in Nagano was first brought to this region.
For travelers interested in Japanese Buddhism, history, and traditional pilgrimage culture, the temple provides much more than an ordinary sightseeing stop. The dark passage of O-Kaidan Meguri, the ancient Buddhist treasures, the peaceful temple grounds, and the legends surrounding Honda Yoshimitsu each offer a different way to encounter the site’s spiritual heritage.
When visiting Iida and Southern Shinshu, take time to walk through the quiet grounds of Moto-Zenkoji and explore the surrounding historic sites. A visit here offers a deeper understanding of the religious traditions that connect this peaceful corner of Nagano with Zenkoji Temple in Nagano City.