A Temple Born from the Hardships of the Ancient Tosando Road
The origins of Shinano Hiei Kojo-in date back to 817, when the Buddhist monk Saicho, also known as Dengyo Daishi, was traveling through eastern Japan. While crossing the steep and difficult Misaka Pass, he is said to have become deeply concerned about the hardships faced by travelers along the route.
According to tradition, Saicho established two roadside shelters known as fuseya to assist travelers: Kosai-in on the Mino side of the pass and Kojo-in on the Shinano side. The story is recorded in the biography of Saicho known as the Eizan Daishi-den and forms the historical foundation of the temple.
The temple’s name, Kojo-in, reflects its original role as a place where travelers could rest and receive assistance. In an era when crossing the mountains could be a dangerous journey, such facilities played an important role in supporting people traveling between the central regions of Japan and the eastern provinces.
The Historic Site of the Fuseya
A building known as Tsukimido was later established at the site associated with the original Kojo-in. The present structure dates from a reconstruction during the Bunsei era and preserves the memory of the temple’s early history.
In 1928, the chief priest of Zenkoji and other prominent Buddhist priests investigated the historical remains in the area, helping clarify the location and history of the former temple. The site was subsequently revived during the Heisei era, and a major restoration project brought the temple back to life.
In 2005, the temple’s Konpon Chudo Main Hall and bell tower were constructed, and Shinano Hiei Kojo-in was formally reopened as a temple. A branch of the Immortal Dharma Flame, traditionally kept burning at Enryakuji Temple on Mount Hiei, was also brought here. The sacred flame now serves as an important spiritual symbol of the temple.
Konpon Chudo Main Hall and the Immortal Dharma Flame
The Konpon Chudo, or Main Hall, was completed in 2005. It enshrines Yakushi Ruriko Nyorai, the Medicine Buddha, who has long been associated with healing and protection.
Inside the hall burns the Immortal Dharma Flame transmitted from Enryakuji Temple on Mount Hiei. The presence of this flame creates a solemn atmosphere and emphasizes the temple’s connection with the long spiritual tradition of Tendai Buddhism.
Mountain Gate and Bell Tower
The temple’s Sanmon Mountain Gate was built in 2016 to commemorate 1,200 years since Saicho’s journey through eastern Japan. Its relatively recent construction complements the site’s much older historical traditions.
The bell tower was built in 2005. The temple bell bears an inscription of the Sange Gakushoshiki, a set of principles traditionally attributed to Saicho, connecting the present-day temple with the teachings of its legendary founder.
Tsukimido and Nyorai-do
Tsukimido stands on the site associated with the original Kojo-in. Its name, meaning “Moon-Viewing Hall,” reflects the area’s long association with travelers and literary figures who admired the moon from this mountain setting.
Nearby, Nyorai-do Hall enshrines the Zenkoji Nyorai and Senju Kannon Bosatsu, the Thousand-Armed Kannon. The quiet hall provides a peaceful place for prayer and reflection amid the surrounding mountains.
Other Highlights Around the Temple Grounds
The temple grounds include Shikan Seisha Zenrindo, where visitors can experience meditation and sutra copying. These traditional Buddhist practices offer an opportunity to experience Japanese temple culture beyond simply viewing historic buildings.
Another unusual feature is a piece of serpentinite known as a rock associated with a white snake. The white snake is regarded as a spiritual presence connected with the site and is commemorated during the temple’s annual festival.
A statue of Dengyo Daishi Saicho, erected in 1996, also stands within the grounds. At Sai-no-Kawara, rows of small Jizo statues create a quiet and contemplative landscape, offering comfort to visitors and worshippers.
Traditional Festivals and Religious Events
Daika Sho Sanmai: Fire-Walking Ceremony
Every year on February 11, the temple holds Daika Sho Sanmai, a dramatic fire-walking ceremony. After a goma fire ritual, participants walk barefoot across the remaining hot embers while praying for good health, protection from illness, and good fortune.
The sight of participants crossing the glowing embers is both powerful and deeply rooted in Japanese Buddhist religious tradition, attracting many worshippers to the temple each year.
Fueteki no Bon, Myoken Star Festival and Thousand-Lantern Memorial Service
Held on a weekend in the fourth week of August, this event combines a prayer ceremony dedicated to Myoken Bosatsu, the Buddhist deity associated with the stars, with a nighttime lantern ceremony.
After nightfall, lights are placed around the many Jizo statues at Sai-no-Kawara, creating an atmospheric scene in which hundreds of small points of light illuminate the temple grounds.
White Snake Festival
The White Snake Festival is held around the autumn equinox in September. The event is associated with the white snake believed to dwell within the temple’s serpentinite rock and reflects the enduring connection between local religious traditions and the natural landscape.
A Historic Temple in the Mountains of Sonohara
Shinano Hiei Kojo-in is more than a Buddhist temple. It is a place where the history of ancient transportation routes, Japanese Buddhism, literature, and mountain culture come together.
Standing near the historic Misaka Pass, the temple recalls a time when travelers crossed the mountains on foot and depended on roadside shelters for safety. Its modern buildings and ancient traditions exist side by side, allowing visitors to experience how a place of compassion for travelers has continued into the present day.
The surrounding Sonohara area is also rich in attractions, including Sonohara, Misaka Shrine, Fujimidai Highlands, and Heavens Sonohara. Together, they make the area an excellent destination for exploring the history, spirituality, and natural beauty of southern Nagano.
Access
Shinano Hiei Kojo-in is approximately 40 minutes by car from JR Iida Station. It is about 25 minutes by car from the Iida-Yamamoto Interchange on the Chuo Expressway, while the Sonohara Interchange, accessible to vehicles traveling from the Nagoya direction, is approximately 5 minutes away by car.
The temple can easily be combined with visits to Sonohara, Misaka Shrine, Fujimidai Highlands, and Heavens Sonohara, making it a rewarding stop on a sightseeing route through Achi Village.