The Origins and Development of Shiojiri-juku
The history of Shiojiri-juku is said to have begun in 1563, when the Takeda clan developed a post station on the western side of Shiojiri Pass during the Warring States period.
At that time, the Nakasendo did not follow its present route. Travelers coming from Shimosuwa-juku passed through Ono Pass, Ono-juku, and Ushikubi Pass before reaching Sakurazawa. This route included difficult mountain terrain, so the route was later changed under the direction of Okubo Nagayasu, and Shiojiri-juku was developed as a new post town.
From its establishment, Shiojiri-juku became an important gateway to the Matsumoto domain. From 1725, the area became directly administered by the shogunate as a tenryo territory, and Shiojiri Jinya was established. The administrative complex was later used as the Owari Domain’s Shiojiri administrative office and, during the Meiji period, as the Shiojiri office of Ina Prefecture.
A Major Crossroads for Trade and Travel
Shiojiri-juku was important not only because of the Nakasendo. It also stood at a junction with the Chikuni Kaido, known as the “Salt Road,” and the Sanshu Kaido, which connected the area with Ina and Iida.
The post town therefore became an important distribution center. Salt arriving from Mikawa Province was known as “southern salt”, while salt brought from Itoigawa in Echigo Province through the Azumino area was known as “northern salt.” These two routes met around Shiojiri, and this connection is traditionally associated with the origin of the name Shiojiri, literally meaning “end of salt.”
Life in the Edo-Period Post Town
Shiojiri-juku was divided into three sections: Kamimachi, Nakamachi, and Shimomachi. The central Nakamachi area contained the honjin, waki-honjin, and the official transportation and messenger office.
According to the Nakasendo Shukuson Taigaicho, a detailed survey of post towns and villages compiled in 1843, Shiojiri-juku had 166 buildings and a population of 794. It had one honjin, one waki-honjin, and as many as 75 inns, making it one of the larger post towns along the Nakasendo.
The Kawakami family served as the hereditary honjin owners. In 1880, the post town welcomed Emperor Meiji during his journey through the region, and a commemorative monument still remains today.
Shiojiri Jinku: A Song of the Old Highway
The post towns of the Nakasendo preserve many traditional folk songs associated with travelers and local life. Shiojiri-juku has its own song, known as Shiojiri Jinku.
Its lyrics evoke the melancholy of travelers and the atmosphere of the old post town, with lines describing a visitor from Suwa carrying a basket of loaches and another reflecting on whether to continue to Shiojiri or return toward Seba. These traditional verses offer a glimpse into the emotions and everyday scenes of people who traveled the Nakasendo centuries ago.
Historic Sites Around Shiojiri-juku
Hiraide Ichirizuka
Two historic ichirizuka, or traditional mile markers, remain along the old highway, one on each side of the road. These earth mounds once marked distances along the Nakasendo and provide tangible reminders of the route traveled by people on foot during the Edo period.
Walking from Shiojiri-juku toward Seba-juku, visitors can still encounter traces of the historic road and imagine the journeys made by travelers in the past.
Honjin and Waki-honjin Sites
The former sites of the honjin and waki-honjin remain among the important historical landmarks of Shiojiri-juku. The honjin was reserved primarily for feudal lords and other high-ranking travelers, while the waki-honjin provided additional accommodation for important guests.
Horiuchi Family Residence
The Horiuchi Family Residence is a particularly valuable example of traditional architecture associated with the old post town. The house features the distinctive tsuma-iri honmune-zukuri style, in which the main entrance is placed on the gabled end of the building.
A decorative feature known as a “suzume-odoshi”, or “sparrow deterrent,” can also be seen on the roof. The residence is designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan and preserves the appearance of traditional post-town architecture.
Are Shrine
At the western end of Shiojiri-juku stands Are Shrine, an ancient shrine that has long been revered as a guardian of the local community.
The main sanctuary is built in the three-bay Nagare-zukuri architectural style. One of its distinctive features is an opening between adjacent shrine buildings that allows worshippers to pay their respects toward the Okumiya sanctuary at Myojindaira from a distance.
According to the shrine’s tradition, an ancient station called Kakushi Station, associated with the old Tosan-do route, once existed near the shrine. This connection adds another layer of history to the area around the former post town.
Eifukuji Temple
At the eastern end of Shiojiri-juku is Eifukuji Temple, whose principal image is a Bato Kannon, or Horse-Headed Kannon, said to have been carved by the Buddhist monk Gyoki in 737.
The temple was founded in 1521 by Kiso Yoshikata, who is said to have been a descendant of the famous warrior Kiso Yoshinaka. It was established to commemorate Yoshinaka and pray for his spiritual repose. The temple was later moved to its present location when the post town was developed.
The temple was renamed Eifukuji to avoid using the childhood name Chofukumaru, which was associated with the ninth shogun, Tokugawa Ieshige. The temple continues to serve as an important place of worship for the local community.
Hiraide Archaeological Site and Hiraide Museum
A short distance from Shiojiri-juku is the Hiraide Archaeological Site, designated as a National Historic Site of Japan. This extensive archaeological complex contains remains dating from the Jomon period through the Heian period.
Ancient pit dwellings and other structures have been reconstructed at the site, allowing visitors to gain a sense of how people lived in the distant past. At the adjacent Hiraide Museum, excavated artifacts, models, and other exhibits provide a deeper introduction to the long history of the Shiojiri area.
Discovering the Area Around Shiojiri-juku
Although much of the original post town has become part of the modern landscape, historic buildings, monuments, temples, shrines, and other cultural properties remain scattered around Shiojiri-juku.
The area is particularly rewarding for travelers interested in Japan’s historic highways and traditional townscapes. Visitors can combine a walk through the former post town with visits to nearby wineries and traditional craft facilities, creating an itinerary that brings together history, local culture, food, and regional craftsmanship.
Walking in the Footsteps of Nakasendo Travelers
For centuries, travelers stopped at Shiojiri-juku to rest, exchange goods, and continue their journeys across the mountains of central Japan. Today, the atmosphere is much quieter, but traces of that history remain in the old road, historic residences, temples, shrines, and monuments.
Shiojiri-juku offers a peaceful way to experience the history of the Nakasendo while discovering the cultural character of modern Shiojiri. Take time to walk along the historic route, visit its surviving landmarks, and imagine the travelers who once passed through this important gateway between Shinshu and the surrounding regions.