The History of Karuizawa as a Summer Resort
From Nakasendo Post Town to International Resort
Karuizawa has a long history that predates its modern resort identity. Archaeological sites indicate human activity dating back to the middle and late Jomon Period. During the Kamakura Period, the area was associated with Nagakura Ranch, and its importance increased as transportation routes developed.
During the Edo Period, Karuizawa became part of the Komoro Domain and flourished as an important point along the Nakasendo Highway. Karuizawa-juku, Kutsukake-juku, and Oiwake-juku served travelers along this historic route, with Oiwake also becoming an important junction with the Hokkokukaido Highway.
The character of the area changed dramatically during the Meiji Period. In the 1880s, Alexander Croft Shaw, a Canadian missionary of British background, recognized the appeal of Karuizawa’s cool climate and natural environment. His activities helped introduce Karuizawa as a summer retreat and encouraged the development of villas and facilities for foreign visitors.
A Little Western World in Japan
From the Meiji Period through the early Showa Period, Karuizawa became known as a place where Japanese and Western cultures met. Diplomats, missionaries, clergy, artists, writers, and other foreign residents spent their summers here. At its peak, more than a thousand foreign visitors stayed in Karuizawa during the summer season.
Western-style buildings, churches, hotels, tennis courts, cultural activities, and new food traditions became part of everyday life. From the Taisho Period onward, prominent Japanese politicians, business leaders, and members of the cultural elite also began building villas, transforming Karuizawa into an important social and cultural resort.
Writers, painters, musicians, and other artists were drawn to the peaceful environment. During World War II, embassies of Axis and neutral countries also used Karuizawa as a place of evacuation. After the war, the resort became increasingly popular among Japanese travelers and eventually developed into the internationally recognized destination it is today.
Nature and Climate of Karuizawa
A Cool Highland Escape
Karuizawa lies on an elevated plateau surrounded by mountains and hills. The northern part connects with the Joshin’etsukogen National Park, while open grasslands, forests, golf courses, lakes, ponds, and streams spread across the town.
The elevation and geography give Karuizawa a notably cool climate. Summers are generally around 6°C cooler than Tokyo, making the town particularly attractive as a summer retreat. Winters are much colder, with temperatures sometimes falling to around -15°C.
Mist is also a familiar part of the Karuizawa landscape. The combination of cool temperatures, forests, water, and frequent mist creates the distinctive atmosphere for which the resort is known.
Forests, Waterfalls, Lakes, and Wildlife
Karuizawa’s natural attractions range from famous waterfalls and tranquil ponds to extensive forests and bird habitats. Karuizawa Wild Bird Forest is particularly popular with nature lovers, offering opportunities to observe a variety of wild birds and participate in guided nature programs.
Mountains and forests surrounding the town provide excellent opportunities for hiking, cycling, horseback riding, and nature walks. In winter, the same highland environment becomes a setting for skiing, skating, and other snow activities.
Karuizawa’s Villa Culture
One of the defining features of Karuizawa is its extensive villa culture. More than 16,000 private villas are scattered throughout the town, reflecting the resort’s long history as a place for summer retreats and second homes.
Villas were originally developed for foreign residents and later became popular among Japanese political, business, and cultural figures. Today, Karuizawa continues to attract people looking for a peaceful environment surrounded by nature, and it has also gained attention as a destination for long stays, relocation, and workation.
The town has also developed a distinctive approach to landscape and environmental protection. Building regulations and other measures help preserve the character of the resort, while restrictions on certain types of late-night and adult-oriented businesses contribute to maintaining a quiet residential environment.
Karuizawa’s Regional Economy and Accessibility
A Gateway to Eastern Nagano
Karuizawa is conveniently located for access from the Tokyo metropolitan area. The Hokuriku Shinkansen connects Tokyo and Karuizawa in approximately one hour, making the town an exceptionally accessible mountain resort.
The town also serves as an important gateway between Nagano Prefecture and eastern Japan. Railways and roads connect Karuizawa with neighboring areas such as Miyota, Komoro, Saku, Tomi, and Ueda in Nagano, as well as Tsumagoi, Naganohara, Kusatsu, Annaka, and Shimonita in Gunma Prefecture.
This wider regional network is sometimes described as the Greater Karuizawa Economic Area. Tourism, hospitality, retail, logistics, and service industries operate across municipal boundaries, creating a regional economy centered on Karuizawa’s strong resort brand.
Karuizawa’s Local Specialties
Karuizawa-bori Woodcarving
Karuizawa-bori is a traditional woodcarving craft that developed during the Meiji Period. It originally grew as a form of souvenir production for foreign visitors, incorporating delicate carving and designs suited to the tastes of international guests.
Today, artisans continue to create furniture, decorative objects, and everyday items that combine practical use with artistic craftsmanship.
Kirishita Vegetables
Kirishita vegetables are high-quality Western-style vegetables grown using Karuizawa’s cool climate and frequent mist. Lettuce, cabbage, watercress, and tomatoes are among the best-known examples.
The cultivation of these vegetables expanded during the Meiji Period in response to the dietary preferences of foreign residents and visitors. Today, produce from the region is valued by restaurants and hotels throughout Japan.
Natural Ice
Natural ice has been produced and stored in Karuizawa since the Meiji Period. In the early days of the resort, ice harvested during winter was stored in icehouses and delivered to villas during the summer for use in early refrigeration systems.
This traditional practice has survived in a modern form, and natural ice remains one of the unusual products associated with Karuizawa.
Jam and Highland Fruits
Jam is another classic Karuizawa specialty. Strawberries, blueberries, rhubarb, and other fruits grown in and around the highlands are made into flavorful jams. The tradition dates back to the period when Western-style breakfast culture was introduced to the resort.
Today, numerous jam shops and workshops offer products that emphasize the natural flavor of locally grown fruit.
Karuizawa Whisky and Craft Beer
The name Karuizawa is also associated with whisky that gained international recognition. The former Mercian Karuizawa Distillery, however, was actually located in neighboring Miyota Town rather than within Karuizawa itself.
Karuizawa is also home to the headquarters of craft beer companies including Yoho Brewing and Karuizawa Brewery. Their brewing facilities are located in neighboring Saku City, illustrating how Karuizawa’s regional brand extends beyond the town’s administrative boundaries.
Historic Streets and Cultural Landmarks
Oiwake-juku
Oiwake-juku was the 20th post station on the Nakasendo and developed at the junction with the Hokkokukaido Highway. Historic buildings and streets preserve the atmosphere of the former post town, which was also favored by writers and artists.
Old Karuizawa Main Street
Old Karuizawa Ginza, also known as Old Karuizawa Main Street, developed around the former Karuizawa-juku. Today it is one of the town’s most popular areas for walking, shopping, cafés, sweets, and local specialties.
Its mixture of traditional shops, fashionable boutiques, Western-influenced architecture, and long-established stores makes it an ideal place to experience the unique atmosphere of Karuizawa.
Former Mikasa Hotel
The Former Mikasa Hotel is a historic Western-style wooden hotel built during the Meiji Period by Japanese designers and craftsmen. Designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan, it is sometimes called the “Rokumeikan of Karuizawa” because of its elegant architecture and cultural significance.
Shaw House Memorial
The Shaw House Memorial commemorates Alexander Croft Shaw, whose activities played an important role in the development of Karuizawa as a summer resort. The building represents the early stage of villa culture and provides an opportunity to learn about the international history of the town.
Scenic Spots
Shiraito Falls
Shiraito Falls is one of Karuizawa’s best-known scenic attractions, located at an elevation of around 1,400 meters. Water descends in numerous thin streams resembling white threads, creating an elegant curtain-like appearance surrounded by forest.
The waterfall is a classic Karuizawa destination and a refreshing place to experience the area’s highland nature.
Kumoba Pond
Kumoba Pond is a tranquil body of water fed by the spring known as Gozen-sui. It was once visited by swans, earning it the nickname “Swan Lake.” A walking trail circles the pond, and the scenery becomes especially beautiful during the autumn foliage season.
Kumano Kotai Shrine and Usui Pass Observation Platform
Kumano Kotai Shrine stands at an elevation of approximately 1,200 meters on the historic Usui Pass. Unusually, the shrine straddles the boundary between Nagano and Gunma prefectures, with the shrine complex associated with two separate religious corporations.
Nearby, the Usui Pass Observation Platform offers sweeping views across the surrounding mountains. On clear days, Mount Fuji can sometimes be seen in the distance. Traditional teahouses around the pass also offer the famous local specialty known as chikara-mochi.
Karuizawa Lake Garden
Karuizawa Lake Garden is an elegant garden centered around an artificial lake and divided into eight distinctive garden areas. It is particularly famous for its English and French roses, which create spectacular displays in early summer.
Lake Shiozawa and Karuizawa Taliesin
Lake Shiozawa is surrounded by a relaxing lakeside park where visitors can walk, enjoy boating, and explore the surrounding greenery.
At Karuizawa Taliesin, the lake is surrounded by museums, historic buildings, literature-related facilities, gardens, and leisure attractions. It is an excellent destination for visitors who want to combine art, history, nature, and family activities in one place.
Chikuma Falls and Ryugaeshi Falls
Chikuma Falls is surrounded by lush forest and connected to walking trails, making it a peaceful destination for a nature stroll. Ryugaeshi Falls offers a more dramatic flow of water and a strong sense of the power of the surrounding landscape.
Historic Hotels and Resort Stays
Karuizawa has long been home to prestigious hotels and traditional inns that reflect the history of the resort. These properties combine classical architecture and traditions with modern hospitality.
Manpei Hotel, which opened in 1894, originated from an inn associated with the old Karuizawa-juku. It became an important meeting place for foreign visitors and is one of the most iconic historic hotels in the town. It is also known for its connection with John Lennon.
Other long-established accommodations include Tsuruya Ryokan, which has welcomed famous writers, as well as Kose Onsen Hotel and Shiotsubo Onsen Hotel. Hoshinoya Karuizawa offers a modern luxury resort experience surrounded by nature, while Karuizawa Prince Hotel combines accommodation with golf, shopping, and leisure facilities.
Churches and Christian Heritage
Karuizawa has an important place in the history of Christianity and international culture in Japan. The town is home to numerous churches, monasteries, and religious retreat facilities, and several historic churches have become well-known landmarks.
Karuizawa Shaw Memorial Chapel commemorates Alexander Croft Shaw and the early development of Christianity and international culture in Karuizawa.
Karuizawa Union Church has a history of welcoming both Japanese and international worshippers, while Karuizawa Church represents the town’s long Protestant tradition.
St. Paul’s Catholic Church is known for its distinctive Gothic-inspired architecture and is also popular as a wedding venue.
Karuizawa Kogen Church stands among the trees with its characteristic triangular roof. Dating back to 1921, the church is known for gospel services, seasonal events, and resort weddings.
Stone Church – Uchimura Kanzo Memorial Hall is another architectural highlight, inspired by the ideas of Christian thinker Kanzo Uchimura. Its distinctive stone-and-glass design harmonizes with the surrounding forest.
Music, Art, and Cultural Life
Karuizawa is much more than a nature resort. Its long association with writers, musicians, painters, and international visitors has created a rich cultural landscape.
Karuizawa Ohga Hall is a major concert venue built with a donation from Norio Ohga, former president and chairman of Sony. The hall hosts classical music and chamber performances in a beautiful resort setting.
Other venues, including Karuizawa Corne Music Hall and Karuizawa Villa Cecilia Music Hall, offer more intimate settings for concerts and chamber music.
Museums and Literary Heritage
Municipal Museums and Archives
Karuizawa Town Library, including the Nakakaruizawa and Hanareyama libraries, provides a quiet space for reading and access to local materials.
Karuizawa Town History and Folklore Museum introduces the town’s history, traditional culture, and cultural properties, while the Oiwake-juku Local History Museum focuses on the history of the historic post town.
Literary Memorial Museums
Tatsuo Hori Literary Memorial Museum celebrates the writer Tatsuo Hori, who had a deep affection for Karuizawa. Manuscripts and personal belongings provide insight into the literary world that developed around the resort.
Rihaku Muro Saisei Memorial Museum introduces the life and works of poet and novelist Saisei Muro, while the Former Konoe Fumimaro Villa and Ichimura Memorial Hall preserves the atmosphere of prewar Karuizawa.
Private Museums and Art Spaces
Karuizawa has an unusually rich concentration of private museums. Karuizawa Senju Hiroshi Museum presents works by internationally acclaimed Japanese painter Hiroshi Senju in a distinctive glass-and-garden building designed by architect Ryue Nishizawa.
Karuizawa Taliesin combines museums, literature, historic architecture, gardens, and leisure facilities. Musee Mori no Forest includes the Karuizawa Picture Book Museum and Erz Toy Museum, making it particularly appealing to families.
Other distinctive cultural destinations include the Museum of Contemporary Art Karuizawa, Karuizawa New Art Museum, Wakita Museum, Karuizawa Ando Museum, Tasaki Museum, Karuizawa Small Museum of Playing Cards, and Karuizawa Ueno Museum.
Sports and Outdoor Activities
Karuizawa offers an impressive range of sports and outdoor recreation. Karuizawakai Tennis Courts have a long history and have been used by numerous notable visitors.
Kazakoshi Park is a major year-round sports complex featuring an ice arena, swimming facilities, a curling rink, and the Karuizawa Town Botanical Garden.
Karuizawa Ice Park is one of Japan’s largest year-round curling facilities, with six curling sheets. Visitors can watch official competitions or try introductory curling lessons.
The area also offers numerous golf courses, including Old Karuizawa Golf Club, Karuizawa Golf Club, Karuizawa 72 Golf, Nakakaruizawa Country Club, Mitsui no Mori Karuizawa Country Club, and Karuizawa Club Orsovert.
Shopping and Dining
Old Karuizawa and Resort Shopping
Shopping is an essential part of the Karuizawa experience. Old Karuizawa Main Street is lined with long-established shops, cafés, confectionery stores, boutiques, and souvenir shops.
Church Street Karuizawa connects Old Karuizawa Ginza with St. Paul’s Catholic Church and features fashion, souvenirs, Shinshu cuisine, and restaurants.
Karuizawa Prince Shopping Plaza near Karuizawa Station is a large outlet-style shopping complex surrounded by extensive greenery. It combines brand shopping with the relaxed atmosphere of a resort.
Harunire Terrace in the Hoshino area connects shops and restaurants with wooden walkways among the trees. Cafés, restaurants, galleries, and lifestyle stores make it an especially pleasant place to spend a few hours.
For local produce and souvenirs, visitors can also explore supermarkets such as Tsuruya Karuizawa and Delicia Karuizawa, as well as Karuizawa Hotchi Ichiba, a farmers’ market offering fresh regional products.
Local Food and Hands-on Experiences
Chimoto Sohonten, established in 1947, is a long-established sweets shop on Old Karuizawa Ginza. Its specialties include Chimotomochi, grilled dumplings, soba dumplings, and shaved ice made with natural ice.
Shinshu Ham Karuizawa Workshop offers locally inspired ham and sausages, as well as reservation-based sausage-making experiences and a café restaurant.
At Raku-yaki Togado, visitors can purchase ceramic goods and try painting their own plates and cups, taking their finished creations home as souvenirs.
Hot Springs in Karuizawa
Karuizawa has several hot spring facilities, although they are dispersed throughout the town rather than concentrated into one traditional hot spring district.
Kose Onsen, Yusuge Onsen, Happu Onsen, Shiotsubo Onsen, Hoshino Onsen, and Chikuma Falls Onsen each offer different experiences, from traditional therapeutic bathing environments to modern resort facilities.
Relaxing in an open-air bath surrounded by forests is one of the most enjoyable ways to experience Karuizawa’s highland atmosphere.
Nature Experiences and Wildlife Tours
Picchio is a leading nature interpretation center in Karuizawa, offering guided tours into the surrounding forests. Depending on the season, visitors may learn about wild birds, Japanese serow, flying squirrels, and even Japanese black bears.
For travelers seeking a more active experience, Rising Field Karuizawa combines camping, athletic courses, river activities, and nature walks with resort-style facilities.
Literary Monuments and Historic Memories
Karuizawa’s reputation as a retreat for writers, poets, politicians, and artists has left numerous monuments throughout the town. Literary monuments and poetry stones commemorate figures including Yosano Hiroshi and Akiko Yosano, Hakushu Kitahara, Arishima Takeo, Saisei Muro, Michizo Tachihara, Shiro Toyama, and many others.
Visitors can also find memorial statues dedicated to figures connected with Karuizawa, including Rabindranath Tagore and railway and resort developer Yasujiro Tsutsumi. These scattered monuments reveal another side of Karuizawa: a place where people came not only to escape the summer heat, but also to write, create, think, and exchange ideas.
A Resort for Every Season
Karuizawa changes dramatically throughout the year. Spring brings fresh greenery and flowers, while summer is the classic season for escaping the heat of the cities. Hiking, cycling, golf, tennis, shopping, and outdoor dining are especially popular.
Autumn transforms the forests around Kumoba Pond, Mikasa-dori, and the surrounding mountains into brilliant shades of red, orange, and gold. Winter brings a quiet, snowy atmosphere, along with skiing, skating, curling, and hot spring bathing.
Why Visit Karuizawa?
Karuizawa is more than a traditional summer resort. Its appeal comes from the way highland nature, international history, architecture, literature, art, food, shopping, sports, and wellness have developed together over more than a century.
A morning walk through a misty forest, an afternoon exploring historic villas and museums, shopping along Old Karuizawa Main Street, an evening concert, and a relaxing soak in a forest hot spring can all form part of the same journey.
With easy access from Tokyo, a distinctive international heritage, and a landscape that changes beautifully with every season, Karuizawa remains one of Japan’s most celebrated mountain resorts—a place where the elegance of a historic retreat and the vitality of a modern destination coexist among the forests of Nagano.