The Nakasendo as an Inland Highway
The defining characteristic of the Nakasendo was its inland route. It was the only one of the five major highways that did not follow the Pacific coast, instead crossing mountain ranges, highland basins, valleys, and numerous passes between Edo and Kyoto.
The Nakasendo was approximately 40 kilometers longer than the Tokaido and had 16 more post stations. Because much of the route passed through mountainous terrain and areas that experienced heavy winter snowfall, travelers often had to cover shorter distances each day.
At the same time, the Nakasendo had relatively few major river crossings. Compared with the Tokaido, where travelers sometimes had to cross rivers such as the Oi and Abe Rivers under strict conditions, the Nakasendo offered a different set of challenges, particularly steep mountain roads and difficult passes.
The highway was used for many purposes, including the movement of people, goods, information, and official travelers. It played an important role in connecting Edo with inland regions such as Kofu, Nagano, and the Kiso Valley.
The Nakasendo and the Tokaido
The Tokaido generally offered flatter terrain along the Pacific coast, but major rivers could make travel difficult. River crossings could require the assistance of specialized porters and were sometimes affected by weather and water levels.
The Nakasendo, by contrast, required travelers to cross numerous mountain passes but had fewer large river crossings. The availability of inns and other facilities at the post stations also helped support travelers along the route, and travel expenses were traditionally considered relatively economical.
As a result, the Nakasendo was used not only by ordinary travelers and merchants but also by government officials, members of the imperial family, and daimyo traveling as part of the sankin-kotai system.
The Route and Its Post Stations
From Nihonbashi to Kusatsu
Beginning at Nihonbashi in Edo, the Nakasendo passed through post towns such as Itabashi, Warabi, and Takasaki before reaching Karuizawa-juku in present-day Karuizawa, Nagano Prefecture.
The route then continued through Shimosuwa-juku and entered the historic Kiso Road in Gifu Prefecture. From there it passed through the Sekigahara area before reaching Kusatsu-juku in present-day Shiga Prefecture.
The sequence of post stations along this historic route is commonly referred to as the 69 Stations of the Nakasendo. The post towns provided travelers with accommodation, food, transportation services, and other facilities needed for long-distance journeys.
Why Were There So Many Post Stations?
The Nakasendo had 16 more post stations than the Tokaido. One important reason was the difficult environment of the inland route. Mountain areas could experience heavy snowfall, fog, steep slopes, and rapidly changing weather, limiting the distance travelers could safely cover in a single day.
The relatively close spacing of the post stations helped travelers rest and obtain food and accommodation while making long journeys through challenging terrain more manageable.
Mountain Passes of the Nakasendo
The Nakasendo was famous for its numerous mountain passes. For travelers in the Edo period, these crossings could be physically demanding journeys requiring considerable time and strength. Today, several of the historic sections have become popular destinations for hiking and heritage walks.
Usui Pass
Usui Pass lies between Sakamoto-juku and Karuizawa-juku. It was one of the major mountain crossings on the eastern section of the Nakasendo and remains an important historic landscape around Karuizawa.
Wada Pass
Wada Pass connects Wada-juku with Shimosuwa-juku. The high mountain route presented a significant challenge to travelers crossing the central section of the highway.
Torii Pass
Torii Pass lies between Narai-juku and Yabuhara-juku in the Kiso Valley. The surrounding landscape preserves the atmosphere of the historic mountain highway.
Magome Pass and Jumoku Pass
Magome Pass lies between Tsumago-juku and Magome-juku, while Jumoku Pass connects Magome-juku and Ochiai-juku. These routes are now particularly popular with visitors exploring the historic Kiso section of the Nakasendo on foot.
The Ancient Origins of the Nakasendo
From the Tosan-do of Ancient Japan
The origins of the Nakasendo can be traced back to the Tosan-do, an inland route established during the Nara and Heian periods as part of Japan’s ancient transportation network.
Under the Ritsuryo system, the central government developed major routes connecting the capital region with eastern Japan. Parts of these ancient roads were later incorporated into the route that eventually became the Nakasendo, with connections to regional roads leading toward Musashi and Kai.
The Nakasendo During the Warring States Period
During Japan’s Warring States period, powerful regional lords recognized the military importance of inland transportation routes. The Takeda clan of Kai, the Oda clan of Mino, and the Kanamori clan of Hida were among those who developed and maintained routes through their territories.
Oda Nobunaga is also associated with the use of routes through the Kiso region during his campaigns toward Omi. These historic roads later became part of the network that was developed into the Nakasendo.
The Nakasendo Under the Edo Shogunate
After Tokugawa Ieyasu established the Edo shogunate, the government ordered the development of the Five Highways. Beginning in 1601, the Nakasendo was improved over a period of approximately seven years along with the other major routes.
Existing mountain roads and narrow sections were improved, while facilities such as honjin, waki-honjin, and hatago inns were established at the post stations. Honjin served as official accommodations for daimyo and other high-ranking travelers, while hatago inns provided lodging for ordinary travelers.
In 1716, the name Nakasendo became standardized. From that point onward, the highway was maintained and administered by the shogunate and played an important role in daimyo processions, official travel, and the movement of goods between Edo and Kyoto.
Princess Kazunomiya’s Journey Along the Nakasendo
One of the best-known episodes associated with the Nakasendo occurred at the end of the Edo period, when Princess Kazunomiya traveled along the route on her way to marry Tokugawa Iemochi.
In 1861, the imperial princess was ordered by the shogunate to travel via the Nakasendo rather than the Tokaido. Severe weather and the difficulties of traveling along the Tokaido were among the factors behind the decision. Records of her journey remain important historical materials illustrating the scale and significance of travel along the Nakasendo during the final years of the Edo period.
From the Meiji Period to the Modern Era
Following the Meiji Restoration, the development of Japan’s railway network quickly reduced the importance of the Nakasendo as a long-distance travel route. Nevertheless, sections of the historic highway were adapted into modern roads and continued to serve as regional transportation routes connecting areas such as Tokyo, Nagano, and Nagoya.
Many former post towns in Nagano and Gifu prefectures later became the focus of preservation efforts. Tsumago-juku was selected as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings in 1976, followed by Narai-juku in 1978. These preserved towns now allow visitors to experience historic streetscapes that retain much of the atmosphere of the Edo period.
Experiencing the Nakasendo Today
Exploring Historic Post Towns
Today, the Nakasendo is enjoyed as a historic travel route by visitors exploring Japan on foot or by bicycle. Many post towns preserve old residences, merchant houses, museums, temples, and other historic buildings.
Local restaurants and shops also offer regional specialties, allowing visitors to combine history, walking, food, and traditional culture in a single journey. Walking through an old post town can provide a vivid sense of how travelers once moved through Japan’s mountainous interior.
Walking the Historic Route
Several sections of the Nakasendo have become popular walking routes, particularly around the preserved post towns of the Kiso Valley. Travelers can follow old roads through forests and mountain passes while visiting historic settlements along the way.
The experience is particularly rewarding because the scenery changes from modern towns to quiet mountain paths and traditional streetscapes, creating a journey through both geography and history.
Planning a Nakasendo Journey
Anyone planning to walk sections of the Nakasendo should check the distance between post towns, elevation changes, terrain, and seasonal weather conditions in advance. Mountain sections can become considerably colder than surrounding towns, while rain and snow can make historic paths slippery.
Comfortable walking shoes and appropriate clothing are recommended, especially when crossing mountain passes. It is also useful to check local tourism association maps, trail information, and accommodation availability before setting out.
A Historic Road Connecting Japan’s Past and Present
The Nakasendo is more than an old road connecting Tokyo and Kyoto. It is a remarkable cultural landscape that preserves the memory of travel, commerce, politics, religion, and everyday life in inland Japan.
Walking even a short section can reveal traces of former post towns, mountain passes, historic roads, and traditional buildings. Each step offers an opportunity to imagine the travelers who once crossed these mountains centuries ago.
For visitors interested in Japanese history and traditional culture, exploring the Nakasendo is a unique way to experience the country at a slower pace. Allow plenty of time and energy, and enjoy the journey one historic section at a time.