A Long History Dating Back More Than 1,300 Years
Origins in the Ancient Kiso Region
The origins of Chofukuji are said to date back to 702, when a Tendai Buddhist temple was founded near Yakushidaira along an ancient route through Kiso. Although the temple later fell into decline, it was revived in 1430 by Kiso Toyokata, a member of the Kiso family.
Toyokata invited Chikuin Hakugan, the 22nd abbot of Kenchoji Temple in Kamakura, to restore the temple. After Hakugan’s death, the temple again became without a resident priest and declined for a time. It was revived once more during the Eisho era, from 1504 to 1521, when Kiso Yoshimoto returned his base to Kiso Fukushima.
Yoshimoto invited his uncle Shinshuku, the abbot of Myoshinji Temple, to take charge of the temple. Chofukuji was then converted to the Rinzai school of Myoshinji Zen. At the same time, it merged with Ryugenji Temple, which had once stood in Fukushima Village, taking the name Ryugen-zan Chofukuji.
Chofukuji During the Warring States Period
During the turbulent Sengoku period, Chofukuji received strong protection from the Kiso family and served as their family temple. During the Eiroku era, from 1558 to 1570, Kiso Yoshimasa is said to have rebuilt a mausoleum for the ancestors of the Kiso family and erected a memorial pagoda for the famous warlord Takeda Shingen.
The temple was also connected with the Kiso family’s retainers. Kuwabara Gyobuemon Shigehisa invited the Chofukuji priest Kōan to establish Fumonin Temple, also known as Fudarakuzan Fumonin.
When the Kiso family moved to the Kanto region after submitting to the Tokugawa family, control of the Kiso Valley passed to Ishikawa Mitsuyoshi, a retainer of Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Ishikawa subsequently issued a document guaranteeing protection for the three major temples of Kiso—Chofukuji, Kozenji, and Joshoji—helping preserve their religious traditions.
The Temple Under the Yamamura Family
In 1594, a fire destroyed the temple buildings, but they were rebuilt the following year under the direction of Yamamura Yoshisada, the Kiso magistrate. From this time onward, Chofukuji developed as the family temple of the Yamamura family, who governed Kiso under the Tokugawa shogunate.
The temple grounds contain the graves of successive members of the Yamamura family, including Yamamura Yoshisada and Yoshitoshi. Stone memorial pagodas dedicated to women of the Yamamura family stand on the middle level of the cemetery, while the grave of Kiso Toyokata, who helped revive the temple, is located on the upper level.
These monuments provide a tangible connection to the political and religious history of Kiso. Branch temples were also established in places such as Otaki Village and Kaida Village, allowing Chofukuji’s religious influence to spread throughout the Kiso Valley.
Rebuilding and the Temple Today
Chofukuji suffered repeated disasters over the centuries. The temple complex was completely destroyed by fires in 1850 and again in 1927. Major reconstruction was carried out during the 1960s under the 20th head priest, Bunkyo.
The main gate was completed in 1967, the abbot’s quarters in 1973, the main hall in 1974, and the bell tower in 1983. These efforts restored the temple complex and gave it much of the dignified appearance it has today.
The present buildings are constructed almost entirely from Kiso cypress, a timber for which the region has long been famous. The grounds also feature a stone Jizo statue created by Moriya Sadaharu, a renowned stonemason from Takato, as well as a small garden behind the main hall with white sand and a distinctive stone known as the “Lying Ox Stone.”
Temple Buildings and Highlights
Main Hall and Temple Grounds
The temple occupies approximately 5,300 square meters. Tall Kiso cypress, ancient cedars, and old pine trees surround the grounds, creating an atmosphere of deep tranquility.
As visitors enter, the Kannon Hall stands ahead, while the main hall, built entirely of Kiso cypress, stands to the right and the monks’ quarters to the left. The buildings were reconstructed after the 1927 fire and combine traditional Japanese architecture with a quiet, dignified presence.
The Restored Imperial Messenger Gate
The temple’s Chokushimon Gate, traditionally associated with imperial messengers, was faithfully reconstructed in 1953. Passing through this gate offers a strong sense of stepping away from the modern world and into a place where centuries of history remain alive.
Kankuntei Garden: A Vast Zen Landscape of Stone
One of Chofukuji’s most remarkable attractions is Kankuntei, a dry landscape garden created in 1963 by the renowned garden designer Mirei Shigemori.
The garden expresses the image of a “sea of clouds among high mountains.” Massive stones are arranged across white gravel to evoke clouds flowing through a mountain landscape. The impressive composition is considered one of Japan’s largest dry landscape gardens and offers a powerful interpretation of the Zen view of the universe.
In 2019, Kankuntei was designated a Registered Monument by the Japanese government, recognizing its cultural and artistic value.
Chofukuji and the Culture of Kiso
The Birthplace of the Kiso Dance
Chofukuji is closely associated with the Kiso Yoshinaka Torch Festival, one of the summer traditions of Kiso. On the evening of August 13 each year, a spectacular procession of warriors sets out from in front of Chofukuji to honor the spirit of the legendary Kiso warrior.
A monument within the temple grounds marks Chofukuji as the “Birthplace of the Kiso Dance.” The temple therefore represents not only religious history but also the traditional performing arts and cultural heritage of the Kiso region.
Graves of Historic Figures
The cemetery behind the main hall contains the graves of members of the Kiso family, including Kiso Yoshinaka, as well as successive generations of the Yamamura family.
The gravestone of the ninth-generation Yamamura lord, Yoshiyoshi, bears an inscription composed by Kabashima Sekiryo, a scholar and poet. The grounds also contain the graves of notable figures connected with Kiso’s modern history, including Takei Yosetsu, an early advocate of the Freedom and People’s Rights Movement, and architect Endo Oto.
A Quiet Place Where Nature, Zen, and History Meet
With a history spanning approximately 600 years in its present form, Chofukuji is one of the most important temples for understanding the religious and cultural history of Kiso. Its tranquil grounds, ancient trees, historic graves, traditional architecture, and remarkable Zen garden create a peaceful atmosphere far removed from the bustle of modern life.
For travelers exploring Kiso Fukushima, Chofukuji offers an opportunity to experience the region from a different perspective. Here, the mountains and forests of Kiso provide the setting, while the temple’s architecture, gardens, and monuments tell the story of warriors, feudal lords, monks, and local communities who shaped the region over the centuries.