Nagano > Kiso, Tsumago > Joshoji Temple (Okusa Village)
Joshoji Temple is a historic temple of the Myoshinji school of Rinzai Zen Buddhism located in Suhara, Okuwa Village, Kiso District, Nagano Prefecture. Its mountain name is Jokaizan, and it is regarded as one of the three great temples of the Kiso Valley, together with Kozenji Temple and Chofukuji Temple in Kiso Town.
The temple is also an important destination on the Kiso Saigoku 33 Kannon pilgrimage, where it is the 21st temple, and is associated with the Kiso Seven Lucky Gods pilgrimage as the temple dedicated to Hotei, the god of happiness and contentment. Surrounded by the mountains and forests of Kiso, Joshoji offers visitors an opportunity to experience the region’s long history, religious traditions, and refined Zen architecture.
The history of Joshoji can be traced back to the Kajo era, from 1387 to 1388. It is said to have been founded when Kiso Chikayasu, a member of the Kiso clan, transformed the Suhara Kanjinbo temple and established a new temple beside the Kiso River to pray for the souls of his ancestors.
The temple suffered repeated damage from flooding over the centuries, but it was rebuilt through the efforts of successive members of the Kiso clan and prominent Buddhist monks. One particularly notable episode dates to 1582, during the turmoil surrounding the Honnoji Incident. Six hundred volumes of the Buddhist Daihannya Sutra and a statue of the Buddha entering Nirvana are said to have been brought to Joshoji after being taken elsewhere. An inscription written in ink remains as a record of this event.
After repeated disasters, the temple complex was rebuilt at its present location in 1598 by Ishikawa Mitsuyoshi, the Kiso administrator of the time. Several important early Edo-period structures have survived, and the principal buildings are designated National Important Cultural Properties.
Among the highlights are the Sanmon Gate, built in 1661, the main hall dating from the early Edo period, and the kuri, or monks’ kitchen and living quarters, built in 1654. Their elegant designs retain influences of Momoyama-period architecture, creating a striking combination of refined decoration and robust traditional craftsmanship.
The main hall features a famous “nightingale floor”, which produces a distinctive sound as people walk across it. A statue of Shakyamuni Buddha is enshrined at the center. In the kuri, massive wooden beams intersect overhead, conveying the strength and simplicity characteristic of traditional Zen temple architecture.
Joshoji was also recognized as an important temple during Japan’s modernizing period. In 1880, Emperor Meiji stopped at the temple during his journey along the Nakasendo and is recorded as having taken lunch in the kuri.
This imperial visit reflects the high status that Joshoji held at the time. In 1964, a large seated statue of Daruma, made from Kiso cypress, was consecrated at the temple. Daruma is an enduring symbol of Zen Buddhism and remains an object of devotion for visitors and local worshippers.
Entering through the imposing Sanmon Gate, visitors encounter the beautiful white walls of the kuri and the main hall. The kuri contains a large traditional hearth, while the impressive framework of Kiso cypress beams gives the building a powerful sense of age and craftsmanship.
The grounds also include a memorial tablet hall, Amida Hall, and a bell tower. The large temple bell is particularly notable as a work by Masahiko Katori, a renowned Japanese metalworker designated a Living National Treasure.
In 1993, landscape designer Motomi Oguchi created a beautiful karesansui dry landscape garden. Its restrained arrangement of stones and carefully composed spaces harmonizes with the historic buildings, creating a peaceful atmosphere that reflects the spirit of Zen.
Joshoji is conveniently located about 10 minutes on foot from Suhara Station on the JR Chuo Main Line. Its setting amid the changing scenery of the Kiso Valley makes it especially attractive throughout the year.
Spring greenery, summer forests, autumn foliage, and winter landscapes each give the temple a different character. For travelers exploring the historic Nakasendo route, Joshoji is a rewarding place to pause and experience the quiet beauty of a traditional Japanese temple.
With its historic buildings, Buddhist heritage, artistic details, and tranquil mountain setting, Joshoji Temple is one of Okuwa Village’s most important cultural treasures. A visit offers a chance to discover how history, faith, architecture, and the natural beauty of Kiso have remained closely connected for centuries.