A Post Town Rebuilt After a Devastating Fire
In 1791, Nojiri-juku suffered a devastating fire that destroyed much of the town. The residents rebuilt the settlement, however, and the post town once again flourished as a place where travelers could rest during their journeys along the Nakasendo.
The Nakasendo Shukuson Taigaicho, a detailed survey compiled in 1843, records 108 houses in Nojiri-juku. The town had one honjin, one waki-honjin, and 19 inns, with a population of 986 people. These figures show that Nojiri was one of the larger and more important post towns along the Nakasendo.
The Famous Seven Bends
The most recognizable feature of Nojiri-juku is its Nanamagari, the series of sharp curves that gives the old town its character. The winding layout is also believed to have served a defensive purpose, making it difficult for potential enemies to move quickly through the settlement.
Today, the curves create an atmospheric walking route where traditional buildings and traces of the old post town can still be discovered. Rather than following a straight road, visitors gradually move through the historic settlement, encountering a different view around each bend.
Myokakuji Temple and the Maria Kannon
Among Nojiri-juku’s cultural highlights is Myokakuji Temple, a temple of the Rinzai school of Zen Buddhism. The temple is home to an image known as the Maria Kannon, a Kannon statue associated with the history of Christianity in Japan.
Christianity was strictly restricted during the Edo period, and Buddhist images were sometimes used by hidden Christians as objects of worship. The Maria Kannon at Myokakuji offers a fascinating reminder of this complex period of Japanese religious history.
Historic Traces Along the Old Post Town
Other small landmarks are scattered throughout Nojiri-juku. The place known as Hazure marks an area that once stood at the edge of the post town and was associated with an old inn. Another notable monument is Ibōishi, a stone inscribed with the Buddhist prayer “Namu Myoho Renge Kyo.”
These modest historic remains are part of what makes walking through Nojiri-juku so rewarding. Rather than being preserved as a single museum-like attraction, the history of the post town remains woven into the streets and surrounding landscape.
Walking from Nojiri-juku to Midono-juku
The old Nakasendo route from Nojiri-juku toward the next post town, Midono-juku, offers two different paths. One follows the Kiso River and passes Raten no Kakehashi, a historic cliffside passage. The other is the Yogawa-michi, a route through the mountains that was used to avoid the more dangerous cliffside sections.
Both routes combine history with the natural beauty of the Kiso Valley. Along the way, travelers can encounter historic sites such as the Imperial Drinking Water at Nakagawara, recalling the journey of Emperor Meiji and the long history of travel through the region.
Access and the Atmosphere of the Kiso Road
Nojiri-juku can be reached on foot from JR Nojiri Station, making it a convenient stop for travelers exploring the historic Nakasendo by train and on foot.
Although centuries have passed since travelers and merchants crowded the post town, old buildings and historic traces can still be found among the quiet streets. Surrounded by the mountains and forests of Kiso, Nojiri-juku offers a peaceful experience of the old road, where the atmosphere of Edo-period Japan and the natural beauty of the Kiso Valley come together.
Experience the History of the Nakasendo
Nojiri-juku is a rewarding destination for travelers interested in walking historic roads and discovering lesser-known aspects of Japan’s past. From the distinctive Seven Bends to its temples, monuments, and mountain paths leading toward Midono-juku, the town preserves the memory of the travelers who once crossed the Kiso Valley.
A leisurely walk through Nojiri-juku provides an opportunity to step away from modern Japan and experience the quiet charm of an old post town, where history remains closely connected to the landscape.