A Prosperous Post Town in the Edo Period
According to the Nakasendo Shukuson Taigaicho, a detailed survey compiled in 1843, Yabuhara-juku had 266 houses and a population of 1,493. The post town included one honjin, the official lodging for feudal lords and other high-ranking travelers, one waki-honjin, and ten hatago inns.
Its considerable size reflects the important role Yabuhara played on the Nakasendo. Travelers making the difficult journey through the Kiso Valley could rest here, while merchants and local residents supported a lively network of trade and services.
Oroku Combs: A Traditional Craft of Yabuhara
One of Yabuhara’s most famous traditional products is Oroku-gushi, finely crafted wooden combs that have been made in the area for generations. The tradition is associated with a woman named Oroku, an elderly woman from Tsumago-juku who is said to have started making combs. The craft eventually became firmly established in Yabuhara.
Oroku combs are traditionally made from minebari, a hard and resilient wood that is resistant to warping. The smooth, finely finished teeth glide easily through the hair, while the beautiful grain of the wood becomes richer and more lustrous with use. Even today, skilled local craftsmen continue to make the combs by hand.
The craft was designated a Traditional Craft by the Governor of Nagano Prefecture in 1982 and was recognized as part of Japan Heritage in 2016. Visitors can learn more about the history and production of Oroku combs at the Kiso Village Folk Museum, while local shops offer handcrafted combs to take home as a distinctive souvenir.
Yukawa Sake Brewery: A Brewing Tradition Since 1650
Yabuhara is also home to Yukawa Sake Brewery, founded in 1650 during the early Edo period. It is regarded as the second-oldest sake brewery in Nagano Prefecture.
The brewery’s long history is closely connected with the people who lived and traveled along the Nakasendo. The pure water of the Kiso region and its cold mountain climate provide ideal conditions for sake brewing. The brewery’s traditional flavors continue to be appreciated by sake lovers today.
The Owari Domain’s Falconry Office
Yabuhara-juku also played an unusual role in the administration of the Owari Domain. A falconry office was established here to manage the domain’s falconry activities. Before the office was moved to Yabuhara in 1730, similar facilities had been located at places such as Suhara-juku and Tsumago-juku.
Every year around the fifth month of the traditional lunar calendar, falconers from the Owari Domain entered the mountains known as Suyama to capture young hawks and raise them at the local office. The institution remained an important domain facility until it was abolished in 1871, following the end of the feudal system.
Historic Sites to Discover on a Town Walk
Walking through Yabuhara-juku reveals numerous traces of its past. Among the surviving historic sites are the former site of the Owari Domain Falconry Office, the former honjin site, and the former notice-board site where official laws and regulations were publicly displayed.
Remains of a tall fire-prevention wall can also be found. Such structures helped protect the densely built post town from the devastating fires that were a constant threat in the Edo period.
Yabuhara was also an important transportation junction. The town stood at the intersection of the Hida Kaido and the Gonbei Kaido, linking the Kiso Valley with other regions. The Miyagawa Family Historical Museum, housed at Miyagawa Lacquerware Shop, provides another opportunity to discover local history through old documents, lacquerware, and traditional crafts.
Yabuhara Festival: A Lively Summer Tradition
Held every year in mid-July, the Yabuhara Festival, the annual festival of Yabuhara Shrine, is the largest traditional event in the post town.
Magnificent mikoshi portable shrines are carried through the streets accompanied by powerful drum performances and festive processions. The atmosphere becomes lively as local residents and visitors gather together to celebrate. Continuing since the Edo period, the festival reflects the faith, traditions, and strong community ties that have shaped Yabuhara for generations.
The Legend Behind Oroku-gushi
A touching legend tells of the origins of Oroku-gushi. A young village woman named Oroku suffered from chronic headaches and prayed to the sacred Mount Ontake for relief. According to the story, she received a divine message telling her to make a comb from minebari wood and use it to comb her hair.
Oroku followed the instruction, and her illness was said to have disappeared. The minebari comb subsequently became known as a “comb that grants wishes”, and its reputation spread beyond the local area.
By the Edo period, Oroku-gushi had become widely known. It appeared in literary works such as Ota Nampo’s “Jinjutsu Kiko” (1802) and Santo Kyoden’s “Oroku-gushi Kiso Adauchi” (1807). During the Koka era, it is said that approximately 80 percent of the households in Yabuhara-juku were involved in some aspect of comb production.
A Craft Tradition That Lives On
The tradition of Oroku-gushi continues today. Visitors interested in traditional Japanese craftsmanship can discover how these distinctive wooden combs are made and appreciate the skill required to shape each one by hand.
The combination of practical design, beautiful natural wood grain, and centuries of local tradition makes Oroku-gushi a particularly meaningful souvenir. Holding one in your hands offers a tangible connection to the craftsmanship and everyday culture of the historic Kiso Valley.
Walking Through Yabuhara in Every Season
Yabuhara Station on the JR Central Chuo Main Line is the nearest railway station, and many of the historic streets and sites can be reached on foot. This makes Yabuhara-juku an ideal place to explore at a leisurely pace, following the old streets and imagining the travelers who once journeyed along the Nakasendo.
Cherry blossoms add color to the town in spring, while autumn brings the rich foliage of the surrounding Kiso mountains. Each season offers a different atmosphere, making a walk through the historic post town rewarding throughout the year.
Discover the Living History of the Nakasendo
Yabuhara-juku is more than a preserved historic post town. Its traditional crafts, sake-brewing culture, Edo-period administrative history, festivals, and surviving streetscape reveal how people actually lived and worked along the Nakasendo.
For travelers exploring the Kiso Valley, walking through Yabuhara offers a chance to experience the atmosphere of old Japan while surrounded by the forests and mountains of Kiso. Take your time along the historic streets, discover the story behind Oroku-gushi, and enjoy the quiet charm of this remarkable post town where history and local life continue to meet.