A History Shaped by Faith, Travel, and Hot Springs
The Connection Between Suwa Taisha and Hot Spring Culture
The history of Kamisuwa Onsen reaches far back into the past and is closely connected with the religious traditions of Suwa Taisha. Since ancient times, Suwa has been known as a sacred region associated with deities of wind and water, and the natural hot springs were cherished as one of the gifts of the land.
Onsenji Temple, which was established to protect the hot springs, enshrines Yakushi Nyorai, the Buddha traditionally associated with healing. The hot spring waters were regarded as a sacred source of healing, and it is said that many worshippers visited the area seeking relief from illness.
A Castle Town and Nakasendo Post Town
During the Edo period, Kamisuwa flourished both as the castle town of the Takashima Domain, also known as the Suwa Domain, and as Kamisuwa-juku, a post town along the Koshu Kaido highway. Travelers passing through the region contributed to the town’s lively atmosphere.
There were around 14 traditional inns at the time, but these accommodations did not have private indoor baths. Instead, travelers and local residents used communal hot springs such as Hiray u, Shojin no Yu, Yunowaki, and Mushiyu.
A painting known as the “Omakura Byobu”, created in 1664, depicts both public bathhouses for ordinary townspeople and a walled bath facility intended for samurai. This provides a fascinating glimpse into how deeply hot spring culture had already become part of everyday life in the town.
Kamisuwa was also well known beyond the region. In a hot spring ranking published in 1817, Kamisuwa Onsen was ranked as “East Komusubi,” demonstrating its reputation as a notable hot spring destination during the Edo period.
Modern Development and the Rise of Tourism
During the Meiji period, communal hot spring areas were classified as government-owned land following the land tax reforms. Local residents, however, acquired the rights to the land and continued operating the communal baths.
At the same time, Kamisuwa prospered through its silk-reeling industry, and inns equipped with their own private indoor baths began to appear. This helped hot spring culture spread even further throughout the town.
When the Chuo Main Line opened in 1905, the number of visitors increased rapidly, accelerating the development of the hot spring district. In 1928, Katakurakan was opened as a commemorative project marking the enthronement ceremonies of Emperor Showa. The magnificent facility soon became one of the symbols of Kamisuwa.
By the early Showa period, the town had more than 50 traditional inns, and the shores of Lake Suwa had become one of Shinshu’s leading hot spring and sightseeing destinations.
More than 500 hot spring sources were confirmed in the 1950s. However, naturally flowing artesian springs ceased in 1958, and today the hot spring water is supplied using powered pumping systems.
The Hot Spring Waters of Kamisuwa
The hot springs of Kamisuwa are mainly classified as simple hot springs and simple sulfur springs. The water is generally clear and gentle, making it pleasant for bathing.
Source temperatures are approximately 65°C, while the water at Nanatsugama Onsen reaches around 80°C.
The springs have traditionally been enjoyed for a wide range of purposes, including relief from traumatic injuries, chronic eczema, neuralgia, lower back pain, lifestyle-related illnesses, and women’s health conditions. The gentle quality of the water has also contributed to its reputation as a “beauty-enhancing hot spring”.
Some visitors choose to stay for an extended period to enjoy the traditional Japanese practice of toji, a style of therapeutic hot spring retreat centered on regular bathing and rest.
Highlights of Kamisuwa Onsen
Katakurakan and the Famous “Sen’nin Bath”
One of the most famous attractions in Kamisuwa Onsen is Katakurakan, which opened in 1928. It was built by the Katakura zaibatsu, a powerful business group that prospered through the silk industry, as a facility for employee welfare and contribution to the local community.
The three buildings comprising Katakurakan—the main hall, bathhouse, and connecting corridor—are designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan.
The facility’s famous “Sen’nin Bath” is a large communal bath with a depth of approximately 1.1 meters. Its floor is covered with rounded river stones, creating a distinctive sensation underfoot. While bathing, visitors can admire stained glass and decorative sculptures, giving the space an atmosphere more reminiscent of an art museum than an ordinary bathhouse.
The bathhouse was designed by Matsunosuke Moriyama and features an impressive architectural style influenced by Western Gothic architecture. The combination of historic architecture, decorative details, and traditional bathing makes Katakurakan one of the most memorable experiences in Kamisuwa.
Lake Suwa Geyser Center
The Lake Suwa Geyser was first confirmed to erupt in 1983, and the Lake Suwa Geyser Center was developed in 1990 as a sightseeing attraction.
In the past, the geyser was one of Japan’s notable geysers, shooting hot water as high as 50 meters into the air. Natural eruptions stopped from the 1990s onward, and the eruptions are now reproduced using mechanical equipment.
The center also provides opportunities to enjoy a foot bath and light meals while looking out over Lake Suwa. Further improvements to the facility have also been considered by the city.
Foot Baths and Exploring the Town on Foot
Free foot baths can be found at various locations throughout Kamisuwa. One of the most unusual is the foot bath on the platform at JR Kamisuwa Station. Visitors can use it simply by purchasing a station admission ticket, making it a convenient and relaxing stop before or after a train journey.
There is also a foot bath along the shores of Lake Suwa, where visitors can soak their feet while enjoying the lake scenery and the refreshing breeze.
A Town Where Hot Springs Are Part of Everyday Life
Kamisuwa is blessed with abundant hot spring water, and even ordinary households in the city can have hot spring water supplied to their homes. Hot spring facilities have also been established in places such as elementary schools, department stores, and highway service areas.
This creates a distinctive local culture in which hot springs are not simply a tourist attraction but part of everyday life in the community.
At Highway Onsen Suwako in the Suwa Lake Service Area on the Chuo Expressway, even drivers and travelers making a highway stop can enjoy a hot spring bath. It provides a convenient place to relax and recover from the fatigue of traveling.
Museums and Cultural Attractions Around Kamisuwa
The area surrounding the hot spring district is rich in museums and cultural attractions. At the Sanritsu Hattori Museum of Art and Kitazawa Museum of Art, visitors can encounter outstanding works from both East and West, while the Suwa City Taizi Harada Museum of Art introduces the warm and nostalgic works of local artist Taizi Harada.
At the SUWA Glass Village Museum, visitors can discover glass art from Japan and around the world, as well as enjoy hands-on glassmaking experiences and shopping.
Combining these cultural attractions with the hot springs makes it possible to experience Kamisuwa not only as a place for relaxation, but also as a destination rich in art, craftsmanship, history, and local culture.
Access to Kamisuwa Onsen
By Train
JR Kamisuwa Station is the nearest railway station, and the main hot spring district is only a few minutes’ walk from the station. Even today, approximately 15 percent of visitors arrive by train, making Kamisuwa one of the more convenient hot spring destinations to explore without a car.
By Car
From the Suwa Interchange on the Chuo Expressway, the hot spring district can be reached in approximately 15 minutes via National Route 20. The drive also offers attractive views of Lake Suwa and the surrounding mountains.
Relax by the Lake and Discover the History of Shinshu
Kamisuwa Onsen has developed over centuries through the intertwined histories of religious faith, travel, commerce, and hot spring culture. Today, it remains one of Shinshu’s representative hot spring destinations, where traditional culture, art, sightseeing, and everyday life coexist around the beautiful waters of Lake Suwa.
Soaking in warm water while looking across the peaceful surface of Lake Suwa is an especially rewarding way to experience the region. Visitors can bathe in the historic Sen’nin Bath at Katakurakan, relax in a lakeside foot bath, explore museums and historic sites, and discover the traditions of Suwa.
For travelers seeking a place where Japanese hot spring culture, history, architecture, art, and lakeside scenery come together, Kamisuwa Onsen offers a memorable and deeply relaxing experience in the heart of Nagano.